Guide
How to document vehicle defects with photos
Photos turn an opinion into evidence. Done well, they save you arguments and give the customer something they can act on. Done badly, they are blurry, unlabelled and impossible to match to a finding. This guide covers how to do it well on a phone.
Why photos matter
A buyer who is not at the inspection relies entirely on what you recorded. A clear photo of a split CV boot, a seeping gasket or a rusted sill makes a finding concrete, and shows you did what you said you did. It also protects you if a finding is questioned later.
Use the three-shot method
- Context. A wide shot showing where the defect is on the vehicle: the whole door, the whole wheel, the whole engine side.
- Mid-range. Close enough to see the area clearly: the panel edge, the joint, the component.
- Close-up. The defect itself, sharp and well lit, with a scale reference where it helps.
Get the light right
- Shoot in open shade or on an overcast day when you can. Direct sun causes glare and hides dents.
- Use a low, raking angle of light to show dents and ripples in panels. A torch held to the side works well.
- Avoid flash on glossy paint and glass. It produces hot spots that obscure the detail.
- Underbody and engine bay shots need a proper light. Phone torches are weak, so use a work light.
Show scale
A rust spot could be a 5 mm bubble or a 5 cm patch. Put a ruler, tape or coin next to it for scale. For tyres, photograph the tread depth gauge in the groove, so the reading is visible.
Always photograph identification and the odometer
- The VIN or compliance plate, readable.
- The build plate, if separate.
- The odometer with the ignition on, so any dash warning lights are also visible.
- The registration plate.
What to photograph for common defects
| Defect | What to capture |
|---|---|
| Rust | Wide shot of the area, then close-up. Include a shot from inside or underneath if the metal is perforated. |
| Leaks | Where the fluid is coming from, the surrounding area and the ground underneath. Wipe the area and re-check later if you can. |
| Tyres | Tread face, inner and outer shoulder, sidewall and the date code. Include the depth gauge reading. |
| Accident repair | Panel gaps along both sides, overspray on rubbers or trims, mismatched paint in daylight, and gauge readings. |
| Warning lights | The dash with the ignition on and again with the engine running. |
| Brakes | Pad thickness against a ruler, disc surface, and any scoring or lipping. |
| Interior | Tears, stains and wear in context, plus the underside of the carpet if damp. |
Label as you go
If you wait until the end of the day to match photos to findings, you will forget. Attach each photo to its finding at the time, or note the finding straight after you take it. Software that attaches photos to checklist items does this for you.
Use video for noises and behaviour
A short clip can capture a knock over a speed bump, a rough idle or a warning light flickering. Keep clips short and say what you are demonstrating. Video is evidence of behaviour; still photos are evidence of state.
File handling
- Keep the original files. Do not edit the evidence.
- Compress copies for the report, so the PDF stays small enough to email.
- Do not photograph people in the background, and think about whether the customer’s personal documents belong in the report.
Frequently asked questions
How many photos should an inspection report have?
Enough to evidence every significant finding and the vehicle’s identity, but not so many that the report is hard to read. A few dozen well-chosen photos usually beat a few hundred.
Should I edit or filter photos?
No. Keep originals unedited. You can crop and resize copies for the report, but do not change colours or remove marks.
What is the best way to photograph a dent?
Use low, raking light from the side so the dent casts a shadow, and take a wider shot to show where it sits on the panel.